Decent auto mechanic.

Ok, you obviously are well versed and I won't dispute what you say. It's been a couple of decades since I twisted wrenches for a living and I certainly agree with your thoughts on the other systems. I pay a shop for maintenance now but I own several late model vehicles that I've had brake work done to and I'v not had to replace any hydraulics, just pads and rotors. I usually replace the rotors because they are not that expensive as opposed to resurfacing. Your point on fluid is well taken but I guess I'm a dinosaur who's not convinced it's necessary. Originally Posted by malwoody

When ya live in a van down by the river ya gotta be good at fixin chit!
Lol

When ya live in a van down by the river ya gotta be good at fixin chit!
Lol Originally Posted by BigDeal

What? You say Woody lives in a van down by the river! Which river, The Kaw or The Missouri? There is a river park where the two meet.

Donovans in Shawnee, family owned for over 80 years.
Lenexa Automotive in old town.

Does your brake pedal fade? I've never heard of a "brake flush" being routine maintenance? Originally Posted by malwoody

Brake fluid will absorb moisture out of the air. It is the moisture that rusts the metal brake lines from the inside. The fluid will turn dark. Plus if a vehicle is left to set for a very long time, the fluid can get algae in it and give it a greenish tint. Found that out after bringing a truck back to life. The cleaner the fluid, the better.

duplicate post

Brake fluid will absorb moisture out of the air. It is the moisture that rusts the metal brake lines from the inside. The fluid will turn dark. Plus if a vehicle is left to set for a very long time, the fluid can get algae in it and give it a greenish tint. Found that out after bringing a truck back to life. The cleaner the fluid, the better. Originally Posted by TailHooked

Tailhooked is correct about some forms of algae being green; due to the presence of chlorophyll - that needs sunlight. However, there are other bacteria that will grow, such as the slime molds (myxomycete). The green that is seen is very likely from the corrosion of the copper and brass in the brake system, showing up in the cupric form.

The presence of the green is an absolute tip off the the fluid needs to be change because it would indicate the presence of copper corrosion due to a pH change in the break fluid due to break down of the fluid. A flush out of the system would help to get rid of the slime and biofilms that can cause several types of problems.

Diethylene glycol is a better brake fluid than castor oil used a long time ago, but it can still break down, and like all of the glycols can be digested by some of the bacteria, With antifreeze solutions of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol a drop to 20% or below, bacteria will immediately turn them into food. That can start much above 20% with a pH change. The term "permanent antifreeze" by legal definition is up to 3 years, after that is not considered to be good anymore. Some large systems are run for decades by using pH adjustments, fluid preservatives and maintaining corrosion and biocide inhibitors; those systems do not contain aluminum which will corrode at the higher pH (above 7 is alkaline) required for stability on steel. With the advent of the aluminum block engines on cars in the 1950s a lot of things changed, including the lower pH requirements (below 7 is acid).

To make this short, it is a good idea to just change the fluids, on the tiny automobile and truck engines with less than three foot in diameter pistons and 20 plus pistons in an engine. It is a Little bit expensive to fly someone in to look at your pistons, and test any deposits, during an engine rebuilt after continually running for two or three years.

JRLawrence and TailHooked are giving you 100% correct advice. I can't expand on what they have said. Great Advice from both.

JRLawrence and TailHooked are giving you 100% correct advice. I can't expand on what they have said. Great Advice from both. Originally Posted by Cherokeechief

Ok what gave me pause was the word flush which would imply using a vacuum or other type of pump. I still believe it's overkill so I did some online research and I found quite a few diy methods to change brake fluid without bleeding the brakes. If tires are rotated on a regular basis usually during an oil change it's simple to check the brake linings. While it's been years since I did brakes, the first step was always to locate a drip pan underneath the master cylinder and to then take the cap off of the reservoir. When linings are changed the caliper piston must be completely compressed thereby forcing most of the fluid up through the master. At the completion of the install, I would suck what was left out with a large syringe, clean the screen and install fresh fluid. During routine oil changes I would recommend changing out or adding fluid to the master. My guess is there are dealers and maybe franchise or independent shops that change out the fluid in the reservoir and charge for a flush. If I was paying for a flush, I would want to see it done. I've always checked linings on a regular basis and have yet to replace a hydraulic component. Sometimes preventive maintenance can run amouck but that's my opinion. I don't mind paying for what I need but sometimes dealers etc pull some fast ones.

Y'all have a nice day and drive safely.

I just wanted to update to all great minds here. After doing cost analysis on all the recommended places i came to conclusion that i will stick with dealership, rates with other places arent too competitive.

This thread can keep on going as someone can possibly open their own business out of this.

OK, here's a related but "not really" question. I need someone to fix electrical crap. It's an early 70s car I'm restoring. Window switches don't work (except on driver's main) and dash lights and cabin lights not working. Most shops don't want to work on this. Any recommendations out east here where I live?

OK, here's a related but "not really" question. I need someone to fix electrical crap. It's an early 70s car I'm restoring. Window switches don't work (except on driver's main) and dash lights and cabin lights not working. Most shops don't want to work on this. Any recommendations out east here where I live? Originally Posted by silvrline

Rod's auto in merriam. Electrical experts.

Yeah I would rather take a #10 socket and open the bleeds on the calipers. 2-$10 bottles of Dot 3 or whatever you need. Just pump your break until it runs clear. Tighten the bleed port. Repeat on the other 3. Just a $Jackson and your time.

Yeah I would rather take a #10 socket and open the bleeds on the calipers. 2-$10 bottles of Dot 3 or whatever you need. Just pump your break until it runs clear. Tighten the bleed port. Repeat on the other 3. Just a $Jackson and your time. Originally Posted by TailHooked

No need to "pump"....waste of fluid and can actually slow down the process. Open the bleeder and slowly depress the pedal and when it's down close the bleeder. do this until fluid runs clear. of course this takes two people and the vehicle will need to be elevated. Leaving the bleeder open will just suck air back into the system when the pedal is released unless the bleeder is closed and cannot be accomplished without another person. Since you seem to be so versed on the subject and have apparently developed your own system you must have a shop or at least some jack stands and an assistant. If not I would be curious to know how you accomplish this feat?

Brake fluid will absorb moisture out of the air. It is the moisture that rusts the metal brake lines from the inside. The fluid will turn dark. Plus if a vehicle is left to set for a very long time, the fluid can get algae in it and give it a greenish tint. Found that out after bringing a truck back to life. The cleaner the fluid, the better. Originally Posted by TailHooked

The only time I ever saw rusted metal brake lines were on very old vehicles that had not been driven. the system is sealed and changing the linings will add new fluid before the system can absorb enough moisture to matter. You must own your own shop or work in one because you put forth a theory that is certainly not common among the techs that I know. Or maybe you just read it somewhere.

We need a mechanic forum for all the wanna be Mechanics and Providers who drive hoopties and constantly have car issues.

Now Ive gotta run as Ive got an appt at Malwoody's to have the air bled out of my tires! Too much moisture.
Lol

... Now Ive gotta run as Ive got an appt at Malwoody's .... Originally Posted by BigDeal

Is that over by the Jack in the Box?