Car Salesmen - Dealership owner

if you like to trade every 3 or so years to keep the car in warrantee and typically drive 12000 to 15000 miles per year you might consider a prepaid lease. (see below) if your calculations fall under 15,000 miles per year you can consider a lease. With 10,000 to 13,000 dollars you can buy several new vehicles for 3 years.

(easy to calculate - look at what your mileage was when you bought last car and what it is now and subtract todays mileage from purchase date mileage to find how many total miles you have driven. now find how many years and months you have owned the vehicle ... all should be on your original finance documents and your odometer in your car and divide miles driven by years own - add one year for each year you own and multiple the months by 0.083333333 ... this will give you the REAL miles per year you drove - don't guess do the math)

now you need to ask yourself will my mileage be the same as over the last 1, 2, 3 or 4 years? If not you need to estimate what it will be and I would over exaggerate a "little", but try and be realistic about it.

Why is this so attractive? 1) the manufactures put high residual values on their lease vehicles, because they can help keep future resale values high and the higher the value they put into the residual vehicles value the lower the payments that they can advertise. 2) the higher residual means you get to "buy" a much smaller monetary amount of car proportionally speaking than what the actual value will eventually be. Think of it like this what the manufacture does is say that $30,000 car you want well we will guarantee to buy it for $19,000 in three years if no one offer to by it for more at that time. The "real" value will historically be less than half or between 10,000 and $15,000.

At the end of the lease (3 years) you have 3 options -
Trade the vehicle in to the dealership just like you owned it and have any equity applied to your next purchase.
Return the vehicle to the manufacturer who will send it to an auction or sell it at a reduced price to the dealership if it is a certifiable vehicle.
Keep the vehicle and refinance the balance due and finish paying for it.

The trick is are your normal driving habits with in the mileage ranges? if not you can still use this but is more complex so PM me if you want to know about a specific case.

so now look through your paper and see what you can buy ... you can buy a Mercedes C-class on a 3 year PPL at $17,277+ tt&l ... so all I did was look at the ad they ran multiply and 36 payments oo $359 + due at signing $4353 ... they almost never include tt&l ... a buick encore on a 2 year PPL ... $6775 ... not bad

Like she would do any of this lol.

Business people telling a hooker how to write off and lease a car.

Oh, you can write off handy wipes so no more toilet paper bundles to worry about.
You can also get a discount on hotels becoming a member and save those air miles for those vacations in Jamaica and you could take two a year. Just write the one off as an expense so long as you blah blah blah

Thanks for the info.

Like she would do any of this lol.

Business people telling a hooker how to write off and lease a car.

Oh, you can write off handy wipes so no more toilet paper bundles to worry about.
You can also get a discount on hotels becoming a member and save those air miles for those vacations in Jamaica and you could take two a year. Just write the one off as an expense so long as you blah blah blah Originally Posted by Gotyour6

How prejudice! Independent Providers are definitely business minded. We are CEO, CFO, etc. of a business where half the world's population has the same product as us. Our Vagina! Not only do most of our customers have a vagina laying next to them in bed every night, but they use it occasionally if not frequently.
I am not going to go on & on about this, but hopefully you get my point. Don't insinuate all providers are dumb lazy broads, because they aren't. Just like all hobbyist aren't old ugly losers.
P.S. If you are old enough you will get why I choose a thumbs up icon for this message. You know where to stick it!

Some body just step up and give her the car she wants. I'm certain she would show equal value appreciation. Now, wasn't that easy?

That would of course involve reporting and paying taxes on said income Originally Posted by atlcomedy

I was thinking the same thing. Its the chicken or the egg scenario!!

if you like to trade every 3 or so years to keep the car in warrantee and typically drive 12000 to 15000 miles per year you might consider a prepaid lease. (see below) if your calculations fall under 15,000 miles per year you can consider a lease. With 10,000 to 13,000 dollars you can buy several new vehicles for 3 years.

(easy to calculate - look at what your mileage was when you bought last car and what it is now and subtract todays mileage from purchase date mileage to find how many total miles you have driven. now find how many years and months you have owned the vehicle ... all should be on your original finance documents and your odometer in your car and divide miles driven by years own - add one year for each year you own and multiple the months by 0.083333333 ... this will give you the REAL miles per year you drove - don't guess do the math)

now you need to ask yourself will my mileage be the same as over the last 1, 2, 3 or 4 years? If not you need to estimate what it will be and I would over exaggerate a "little", but try and be realistic about it.

Why is this so attractive? 1) the manufactures put high residual values on their lease vehicles, because they can help keep future resale values high and the higher the value they put into the residual vehicles value the lower the payments that they can advertise. 2) the higher residual means you get to "buy" a much smaller monetary amount of car proportionally speaking than what the actual value will eventually be. Think of it like this what the manufacture does is say that $30,000 car you want well we will guarantee to buy it for $19,000 in three years if no one offer to by it for more at that time. The "real" value will historically be less than half or between 10,000 and $15,000.

At the end of the lease (3 years) you have 3 options -
Trade the vehicle in to the dealership just like you owned it and have any equity applied to your next purchase.
Return the vehicle to the manufacturer who will send it to an auction or sell it at a reduced price to the dealership if it is a certifiable vehicle.
Keep the vehicle and refinance the balance due and finish paying for it.

The trick is are your normal driving habits with in the mileage ranges? if not you can still use this but is more complex so PM me if you want to know about a specific case.

so now look through your paper and see what you can buy ... you can buy a Mercedes C-class on a 3 year PPL at $17,277+ tt&l ... so all I did was look at the ad they ran multiply and 36 payments oo $359 + due at signing $4353 ... they almost never include tt&l ... a buick encore on a 2 year PPL ... $6775 ... not bad Originally Posted by 5T3V3

Only applies to legitimate businesses. That's how they got Westly Snipes!! Pay your Taxes!

If you deposit your earnings in a bank, you can be financed. Find a dealer that advertises using Credit Acceptance corp. as a lender. They will finance you with three months bank statements and a good down payment. Occupation can be listed as massage therapist and your done. There are a lot of franchise and independent dealers using this financial institution to finance people with bad or no credit. I'm a wholesale auto dealer and lots of the dealers I sell to use this bank. Any questions let me know.

Only applies to legitimate businesses. That's how they got Westly Snipes!! Pay your Taxes! Originally Posted by Rein_Symone

I never said anything about BUSINESS or TAXES ... ANYBODY can take out a lease business or no.

It is mathematically the least expensive way to a car 98% of the time ... there are always exceptions BUT .

I never said anything about BUSINESS or TAXES ... ANYBODY can take out a lease business or no.

It is mathematically the least expensive way to a car 98% of the time ... there are always exceptions BUT . Originally Posted by 5T3V3

I disagree about it being the least expensive 98% of the time.
The seller of the lease has to protect himself from the "put" he has sold you. You have the right to put the car in his hands for a specified value which is not guaranteed. He charges you a certain amount for that insurance. He also nails you if you exceed the mileage. You nail yourself if you don't use all the miles you have coming. You only win in a lease if you use all the miles and the car is worth less at the end of the lease than stipulated in the contract. The cheapest way to own a car is to buy one that is 2 years old and gently drive it 10 years. The true cost of a car is the cumulative cost of interest, depreciation, maintenance, repairs, fuel, etc. I like the poster's choice of a car, though - if she buys the SRT!!

I can help, PM me.

I disagree about it being the least expensive 98% of the time.

He also nails you if you exceed the mileage. You nail yourself if you don't use all the miles you have coming. You only win in a lease if you use all the miles and the car is worth less at the end of the lease than stipulated in the contract.

The cheapest way to own a car is to buy one that is 2 years old and gently drive it 10 years. The true cost of a car is the cumulative cost of interest, depreciation, maintenance, repairs, fuel, etc. I like the poster's choice of a car, though - if she buys the SRT!! Originally Posted by DSK

the CHEAPEST way to buy a car is the way that delivers the least total cost for the person buying the car --- a car is an expense. 98% of the population will want a new car in 2-5 years Ford Motor Study.

Assuming you pay cash and don't get a lemon you MIGHT be right, BUT without a warranty all repairs are yours (and that means added expenses). And, if you expect it to go for 10 years you better make all your service intervals as well (most expenses). And, even your scenario depends on how many miles you drive, because if you drive 20,000 per year if you want to get 10years out of the car - firstly, you will be driving a 10 to 12 years old car (only2% of the popular will do that - hence my 98%) - secondly, you will have put 200,000 miles on a car that already has 24,000 to 36,000 miles for a total of 224,000 to 236,000 miles from your imaginary car. if you're a grandma and put 10,000 miles on your car a year you are at a more reasonable 124,000 to 136,000.

Curiously, the drop off in value between 124,000 miles and 236,000 miles is about $1500-2500 dollars in value so the cheapest way to buy a car is actually to buy a car at 100,000 miles and drive it to 200,000 miles you buy it at $6000 and sell it at $4000 as long as you can keep it running.

ALSO, in your scenario you have to pay cash because as you begin to calculate interest the comparison gets very lop sided toward leasing ... Why? because the rate for used cars so much higher than the subsidized rates for new cars.


HE NAILS YOU ...
I guess you are an idiot that got NAILED by excessive mileage on a lease. Look ... a lease is something into which only an intelligent person should enter. You say the value isn't "guaranteed" well it really is. On the contract is says if you return the vehicle with normal wear and tear, in good repair and at or below the contract mileage that the manufacturer will pay $XXXXX.XX dollars for it. The 2 biggest determiners of a vehicles value are Mileage and Age ... well we know the age (3 years form the lease date) and we "impute" the mileage by setting up an estimated number of miles. Now here is where the intelligence comes in YOU get to determine the miles you drive. Now the idiot signs a lease for 10,000 miles per year knowing they actually travel 20,000 or worse without knowing what their average mileage is ... because THAT gives them the payments they want. I can drive a 2015 Acura ILX for $209 a month with 30,000 miles or $365 per month with 60,000 miles - which did you take? the $199 right ... and when you turned it in with 60500 miles instead of 30,500 miles the bastards wanted $6000 dollars --- basically that is the valuation difference between a 3 year old car with 30,500 miles and a 3 years old car with 60,500 miles. (30,000 x .20) <<<< you NAILED yourself. (you will notice my original post spent a great deal of time and effort on that point for exactly that reason AGE & MILES - VALUE)[other facts: initial down $2399 due at signing and guarantee buy back of $19,000]

Now let's talk about nailing yourself by "buying too many miles" - this is a danger only if you have no idea what your vehicle is worth. find six cars just like yours on a dealers lot and figure yours in worth $2,000 to $3,000 less at trade in value. If you are one of these people that think they should pay the actual value (or the retail you just researched) of your car - don't do a lease your an idiot! SO ... you bring your car in with low miles and it is worth $18,000 to $20,000 and your buy back is $19,000 above. When he appraises it if he thinks it is worth $18,000 he will turn it in ... if it is worth $19,000 to $20,000 and he wants it he will buy it and you get the "equity" just as if you owned it, so you really don't get nailed here either.

BOTTOM LINE:
1) the cheapest way to own a car is to buy a car with 100,000 miles and drive it as long as you can.

BUT most people won't drive a beater ...

2) the next cheapest way is to buy a car, pay cash and drive it until the wheels fall off which is 6+ years for most of us. (and pray you don't have a lot of repairs)

BUT good intentions a side only 2% will ever do this and most of those do it because they have to do it.

The rest of us (98%) will trade every 3-5 years:
so
3) a lease can work well (know your mileage)
if the miles wont work for you
4) bankers will typically finance for 3 to 4 years and trade when the warranty is expired and they will know what the trade in value is from their finance department ( another good way for you to know) and that way all repairs expense is the dealers.
5) buy it and make payments, but pay it off before it hits 100,000 miles - because all cars are virtually worthless at 100,000 miles.

on average having sold 10,000+ cars ... 3 is usually the cheapest and the safest ... bottom line everything is cheaper with good credit. 2 is potentially the right answer, but it is unrealistic because it asks to drive an old car (even a 5 year old Mercedes gets old), it can not or does not take into account the expense of potential repairs

How prejudice! Independent Providers are definitely business minded. We are CEO, CFO, etc. of a business where half the world's population has the same product as us. Our Vagina! Not only do most of our customers have a vagina laying next to them in bed every night, but they use it occasionally if not frequently.
I am not going to go on & on about this, but hopefully you get my point. Don't insinuate all providers are dumb lazy broads, because they aren't. Just like all hobbyist aren't old ugly losers.
P.S. If you are old enough you will get why I choose a thumbs up icon for this message. You know where to stick it! Originally Posted by SweetDulce

Fucking spare me the bullshit.
Business minded people file taxes so dont bullshit me.

She has no income on the books.
So much for your tales of crap.

A few may file but you come into a thread where she has NO income, zero.
She could make a million dollars a day and guess what? She has nothing.

So take the bullshit and go some place else.

I am sure you file your taxes of course and live in a wonderful 4 bedroom on the coast.

Give me a break.

As far as where to stick it, I stick it right in my bank.
I can sign a paper and drive a new car right off the lot with cray low interest if any at all.
My credit score I was told is off the charts
I file taxes and I make money on the books.

So get your little welfare on the side, make that cash and walk to the store.

Show me your tax form where you filed for hooking and I will send you $1000.00.
No kidding

Not a tax man, but a business person. If you are a RMT get cards, a DBA from the county, claim some income and pay taxes. If you are not a RMT, be a consultant of some sort, get cards at Office Max, get a DBA from the county. Then you can deposit cash, and on the surface be legit to non-hobby world.

Cash income for massage therapist, beauty operators, waitresses...these jobs get lots of cash and they don't get hassled.

Hey…I am a 'hooker'. I file taxes every year, my credit score is 796, I own a home, I have investments and IRA retirement account, I have health and life insurance, and my net worth as a 30-something year old is WAYYY above average. I can walk into any dealership today and purchase a car financed or leased with no problem.
Do not underestimate our intelligence. :-)