Any legit CAR SALESMEN?

I have couple questions if you can message me..

There's no such thing, especially if you're buying used

Whatever you do, :

1. DO NOT BUY from CARMAX

2. DO NOT BUY from any dealership that advertises No Credit Check, No Credit Required, Bad Credit Okay, No Down Payment and BUY HERE PAY HERE In House Financing.

3. Never, Never take the car off the lot until you have signed something in writing stipulating the exact price of the car, the terms of your car loan (duration in months, your exact monthly payment, your interest rate), what is added on or not added on to the price of the car.

If they say your credit is approved, here's the key and you drive off without signing anything or seeing anything in writing, you are in trouble.

That's called Spot Delivery:

https://www.wusa9.com/article/news/l...very/422771109

4. If you have a car you are thinking of trading in or selling it used, whenever you go to a car dealer, any dealer, DO NOT and I mean DO NOT give them the keys.

A dishonest dealer will keep your keys and hold it hostage until you agree to buy something.

Don't believe that's possible? It's been done many times before.

Or you leave the key, go for a test drive, come back and they tell you your car is already sold. It's gone!

https://axleaddict.com/auto-sales/Av...ealership-Scam

https://www.quora.com/I-had-my-car-k...ch-a-situation

https://www.quora.com/If-a-car-deale...the-dealership

5. Also if you do plan on doing several test drives at different dealerships, make several copies of your driver's license and then write on each one: dealer is not authorized to run a credit check.

Hand that copy to the dealer when they ask for your driver's license before they let you take a test drive.

If they refuse to accept it and want your actual physical driver's license, go to another dealership.

NEVER NEVER give them anything of yours they can hold hostage like the keys to your own vehicle or your driver's license.

6. Remember: just because you took a test drive, you are not obligated to buy anything.

Say thank you and leave. Some dealers want to intimidate you by making you feel guilty that you took their time to take a test drive, you now have to buy or go into their office so they can see what kind of prices they can do for you.

NEVER NEVER go into any offices. Once they got you into one, it will be very difficult for you to leave unless you are a sharp negotiator.

7. NEVER NEVER SIGN anything. If they want you to sign something before even discuss prices with you or show you a car or letting you test drive a car, LEAVE!!

8. FINALLY, this is also very important. If you go to a dealer and they don't have a price on the windows of the vehicles on the lot. LEAVE!! Do not even talk to them even if there is a car that caught your attention.

They tried to do that to me at Grapevine Toyota. Went there with a friend to look at used cars. None of the cars had prices on it. She saw a car she liked, this salesman came out to the parking lot, we asked him how much was that car.

He answwered by asking who is buying. She said she was. He said well it depends on her credit and financials. I asked him what he meant by that. He said she will have to go into the office to fill out some paperwork and he will have to run her credit and based on that information, he, NOT HER, will decide how much car she can afford and what the price of that car she was inquiring about was.

Is that crooked and dishonest or not?

What CG said.

I would add:
In response to a question you ask or an offer you make, if the sales person says they have to check with the manager and they leave you sitting in their office forever...you can let them do it once. The 2nd time, after they leave you alone, walk out.

I purchased my vehicle thru Internet Sales. I visited dealerships after they closed. Decided what I wanted. Submitted it to several dealers for pricing and accepted the best offer.

Once you decide to purchase a car they will send you to the Finance Manager. This is the office where the profit on the car is made. FM will try to sell you dealer add-on shit, paint treatment, interior treatment, etc. Worst of all is Extended Warranty on a new car.

If you buy an Extended Warranty make sure it is thru the mfgr of the car. Don't get one from some no-name company in Miami. When the Finance Manager hits you with "the extended warranty will only add $125/mo to your payments" you counter with $5/mo and DO NOT BUDGE. Do Not Move or Blink. Hold your ground.

If FM does not go for it say OK, no deal and move on. You can always buy the Warranty later, in fact you have years to buy the warranty, up until 100K miles or so.

Extended Warranty is a license to print money, don't buy it unless it is seriously cheap.

Also do not get credit life insurance on your car loan.

That's the insurance that pays off your car loan if you die.

You tell them if I die, you can fucking take the car.

And most of all you can take a car back and cancel the deal up to 3 days

And most of all you can take a car back and cancel the deal up to 3 days Originally Posted by txexetoo

Dude that is not true. If you have a completed purchase agreement you will be hard pressed to get out of it.

Also do not buy from these people.

Do not even fill out an online application or anything with them on their website:

https://www.drivetime.com

Very good advise , and do not buy any tire type warranty .... , Nitrogen fill ( ripe off 78% of air is Nitrogen )
No add waxs or coatings.

CG2014, I agree with your post, but I’m confused about Carmax and Drivetime. I’ve never bought from either, but out of the two, Carmax is the most prevalent and has a large selection of newer model used cars. Other than paying a higher price due to their business model of not negotiating is there any other issues with them that you’ve experienced? Also, out of curiosity, what’s the issue with Drivetime?
Thanks,
MJ69

CARMAX advertise that each one of their vehicle goes through a gazillion point inspection before they are accepted or rejected.

That is not true.

They have a lot of junks and some even are salvage or flooded titles have filtered into their inventory.

So you may be buying one of the million of cars that were lost in the last 2-3 years during the hurricane and other floods in Houston and Texas.

Drivetime is the same as one of those used car dealers that says buy here, finance here, pay here.

Except they are hiding behind a national flashy website and a bunch of dealers in their networks and many of them, when you go there, were exactly that, used car dealers that says buy here, finance here, pay here except now they have a Drivetime sign on them.

A lot of their cars are junk.

Well, most of them that is.

Their mechanics know they have mechanical issues and the cars are still allowed to be sold.

Thanks that makes sense. I never bought from either, but I did sell a car to Carmax a few years ago. I know I could have gotten a few hundred more selling it on my own, but it saved me the hassle of having to meet potential buyers and tire kickers. Unfortunately, there’s probably a lot of used cars on the market that should have been crushed.

CARMAX advertise that each one of their vehicle goes through a gazillion point inspection before they are accepted or rejected.

That is not true.

They have a lot of junks and some even are salvage or flooded titles have filtered into their inventory.

So you may be buying one of the million of cars that were lost in the last 2-3 years during the hurricane and other floods in Houston and Texas.

Drivetime is the same as one of those used car dealers that says buy here, finance here, pay here.

Except they are hiding behind a national flashy website and a bunch of dealers in their networks and many of them, when you go there, were exactly that, used car dealers that says buy here, finance here, pay here except now they have a Drivetime sign on them.

A lot of their cars are junk.

Well, most of them that is.

Their mechanics know they have mechanical issues and the cars are still allowed to be sold. Originally Posted by CG2014

So I did a Google search for Carmax Complaints.

I am seeing a new thing about Carmax that I wasn't aware of.

I know they use a bunch of different lenders.

When one applies for financing with them, the customer gets an offer from one of the many lenders Carmax uses.

Well, aside from the cars being in poor mechanical shapes contrary to Carmax's national advertising that they all go through a very strict inspection process, one of the new complaints I am seeing as a result of my GOOGLE search today is when you submit that loan application to Carmax, everyone of their lenders run your credit.

You do know that when someone does a HARD PULL of your credit report, it stays on your report for 24 months and each HARD PULL also lowers your credit report by 5 points.

The 5 points impact on your score stays on your report the first 12 months of your 24 months.

Well, there are many people complaining that they had their report pulled 12, 16, 20 times based on one application.

Furthermore, some even complained that during the negotiation process, when the Carmax lender and dealer already have their credit report hard pulled and have a copy of it, whenever a new thing is submitted in the negotiation (like I want the GPS navigation package for less money or I want the extra shiny wheels), their credit is pulled again.

So imagine if your credit score is no longer very good and people who go to Carmax, many of them have fair or poor credit and are looking to get finance on a car without too much hassle, since Carmax does advertise they have easy simple financing process.

The FICO score is 300-850. 300-579 is very poor and 580-669 is fair but you are still considered a credit risk, anyone with a credit score in the 580-669 range is considered a subprime borrower by creditors.

Most people who are looking for easy car financing are in that 300-669 range.

So if your credit is already hovering at under 300-669 and your credit report is pulled 15-20 times with each occurrence impacting your score by 5 points for the next 12 months out of 24 months, do the math.

It's not good on your score.

What CG said.

I purchased my vehicle thru Internet Sales. I visited dealerships after they closed. Decided what I wanted. Submitted it to several dealers for pricing and accepted the best offer.
Originally Posted by dallaswill

I'm not a car salesman and I only buy new cases. But as a buyer, I agree that this is the number single best point. Frankly, I never set foot inside a dealership once I have made some test drives and decided the make, model, etc. I want. I tell them what I want, call, fax, or e-mail five or six dealership, and tell them I'm going to buy from the one that gives me the best deal in the next 24 hours. And stick to it. A few refuse to deal that way and that tells me they're not willing to compete on price, which is fine. Usually it'll narrow itself down to two pretty quickly.



There's not guarantee that you're getting the very best deal, but it should get your reasonably close. And you don't waste a bunch of time sitting around. You can use the saved time working. I figure if I save one day of time, I'll more than make up for any lost cost benefit by making extra money that day.

I never buy extras. If there's nitrogen in the tires, I tell them they can give me the nitrogen for free, or take it out and replace it with air. I don't care which. If there's special rims on it, I tell them to take them off and put on an original set. Coatings? Find a car without it or eat it.

Also don't be in a hurry to take delivery. I tell them I'll be in town next week so that's a good time for me to pick it up. Nail down the amount of the check, tax, title, license, etc. I tell them I'm bringing a cashier's check (I pay cash) so I'm going to have the bank make out the check and that I don't carry a check book (which is true). My bookkeeper writes all the checks. So if the numbers are wrong, it'll be another week before I can pick it up, assuming I'm still buying from them. I don't like surprises. They get the message pretty quickly. Then I have the bookkeeper/accountant call to confirm everything before he goes to the bank to get the checks.

The OP said she had a couple of questions. Not that I can quibble with any of the information presented here, but I wonder if her actual questions got answered anywhere in this thread.