For My Photographer Types

bigwill832's Avatar
A question for those of you who do portraits:

What's the best lens and flash (when needed) for doing portraits?

I do photography as a hobby. I don't go out and try to shoot providers. I prefer doing nature shots or candid photos while I'm out riding the motorcycle on roads trips. I am proud of what I have done. But, when I shoot people, I can't say I'm happy with results. I'm taller, so I'm aware of getting the proper POV, also rule of thirds, etc.

I had a friend ask me to shoot their daughters baptism. It went really well. But it was the first time I was ever happy with photos that came out from shooting people. There's something I'm not typically doing right. Any pointers and tips from you portrait guys would be appreciated.

Currently I have a Nikon D5300 and have the standard 18-55mm and 70-200mm. My flash is the standard flash.
Learn the camera, try to use existing light instead of the flash..

Get a GOOD photo editing program.. Adobe LightRoom is very nice.

Practice, practice, practice. Look at photos and work them backwards, learn what a cold shot and a warm shot is.

I know this all sounds Zen like but I see photos taken with no thought as to capture the moment, to make it special... instead its like "click - here I am"

besides the rule of thirds, learn this one

Double the Exposure (F-stop) halve the shutter speed, double the shutter speed, halve the Exposure.

learn how to lie to the camera.. the BEST photos I have taken were thought out and time was taken in setting up the shot.. some test shots were done, lighting adjusted etc.. then we took a few shots that needed very little if any adjustments from LightRoom.

But Practice Practice, Practice. I go out a lot with mine and take various shots so I can be better at camera tweaks than doing all the work in LR.

If portrait work is what you want, seek out a 18mm to 70 or 18 to 135 mm lens.

This allows you to step outside the lights you set up around the subject, yet zoom in close enough so it appears you are close.

and you do not lose F-stops in doing so. Lower F-stops mean a better isolation focus on the subject.. (they are in focus, but everything else is blurry)
bigwill832's Avatar
For some reason it's just portrait type photos I have a problem with. Everything else, I can do really well with. I got back into it a few years ago. Before that it had been a long break and I had last worked with a Nikon F4S. So back when you were still developing film. NEVER had problems then. I wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong with the digital side. I'm going to look into some new lenses. I have some macro photos I'm pretty proud of. But I can't take a picture of a person to save my life. HA!!!!
I would need to study this camera you have because I've never seen this word "Nikon"

But get a fixed length lens in the 30 to 40 range (or less - something that gives you less than 1x image size with your sensor.)....with the fastest f you can afford.

check that....one stop faster than you can afford (f/1.4)

For people, avoid flashes mounted on your camera especially tall ones. The farther they are from your lens, the bigger the shadow created.

Do not use the crap flip up flash if your camera has one.

If you struggle with lighting for set up shots, study it on the web and go talk to Houston Camera Exchange.
Chap0508's Avatar
Use natural light or at least something that can bounce off the walls. Use your 18-55 lens. Last get to know the subject with lots a chat before you shoot and tack tons of shots
Lenses longer than 55 are usually more flattering for head and shoulder type portraits.
Lenses longer than 55 are usually more flattering for head and shoulder type portraits. Originally Posted by Guzzi11
Thats why the 18-75 and the 18-135 mm lens' are called Portrait lenses.

great for the photographer to step back a bit, do some wide angles, then get some close shots without having to stick his/her nose into your business (read: Crotch shots)
...
great for the photographer to step back a bit, do some wide angles, then get some close shots without having to stick his/her nose into your business (read: Crotch shots) Originally Posted by Mr. GPop
That's right and keep that aperture wide open so the subject is clear and the distracting surroundings are blurry.
bigwill832's Avatar
I appreciate the input. I knew I could count on you fucko's for some good intel. I'm going to switch some stuff up and try a few. I just want to know I can do it well. After that, I'm going to move on to macro. I've done some with that and really like digging in a getting those types of shots.
Big Dub.....do you know the crop factor on your sensor?....or is it full frame?
R.M.'s Avatar
  • R.M.
  • 08-02-2015, 10:48 PM
I shot this today with my 50mm lens and natural lighting. I try to keep my ISO at no more than 250 max.

Can you post the raw image Metadata? And filter info if used?

Can confirm no photoshopping?
R.M.'s Avatar
  • R.M.
  • 08-02-2015, 11:08 PM
Is there a sample of your work? I welcome everyone to show their work if possible. With permission of model... I used photo shop to blur her face.
Nice R.M.
Did you realize her nipple is showing?