Old caulk Removal?

What is the best & easiest way to remove caulk, I have already checked online but firsthand experience will save me time & money?....
Y'all have helped me tremendously, Houston Men are the best

I normally use a paint scraper and sometimes screw driver works. Get it started and then you might be able to just pull it off in strips.

Look what I found on Tik Tok shop. Looks like you can remove grout and replace grout.

Hot air gun to soften it up.

Once you get most of it off, tools similar to dentist hand tool scrapers and pics work very well to get the rest.
Look at grout removal tools.
Tigers comment of a hot air gun is correct, a/k/a Hair blow dryer.
Reese's picture of a scrapper is also correct.

Caulk or grout? As mentioned, remove caulk with a flat head screw driver and a metal scraper. Grout is tougher to remove, might want to use a multi tool if the area is substantially larger.

There has been a lot of good advice here. I would add: heat it up with a hair dryer, use a screwdriver or a pocket knife. It will come out. To me laying the new caulk is harder than removing the old.

..... To me laying the new caulk is harder than removing the old. Originally Posted by Fizley

Which is why getting as much out of the old caulk is critical. Must remove old as deep as possible for the new to set in deep.

Also, give the tile and crevasses a scrub after old is removed for surface preparation for the new, and let it dry overnight. This last bit from our bathroom sub-contractor for the hotel job we're running.

depends on where, i resealed my bathtubs and ended up using a dremel with a felt tip. it was way easier than scraping. like most things, it's all in the prep so cleaning/removing it all off will help it last much longer.

putting it on, you can use painters tape to mask off the areas you dont want caulk on.

depends on where, i resealed my bathtubs and ended up using a dremel with a felt tip. it was way easier than scraping. like most things, it's all in the prep so cleaning/removing it all off will help it last much longer.

putting it on, you can use painters tape to mask off the areas you dont want caulk on. Originally Posted by friendlyguy0903

I have a Dremel, let me try this...might be faster
Everyone's ideas have been
very helpful.
I'm Thankful

Busty,
Just be careful with a Dremel, you don't want to nick, or gouge the tiles.
Again, remember to let the tiles dry before recaulking.
A game of dirty word scrabble, with intermissions, should be long enough.

Busty,
Just be careful with a Dremel, you don't want to nick, or gouge the tiles.
Again, remember to let the tiles dry before recaulking.
A game of dirty word scrabble, with intermissions, should be long enough. Originally Posted by Unique_Carpenter

Let's play some scrabble, how do we bring it here ?...does someone know how to bring online
scrabble over here ?
It would be so FUN!!!!!!
Taking a break from caulk removal. Next project is rust removal from a metal exterior door. Uhhhh

Poor hygiene, nonexistent actress skills, a raid by LE, fish smells, evidence of STI, voting for Kamala when you’re a lifelong Republican and former VP, or upselling!

Wait a minute, you said old caulk removal. I get it now. Thought you said old cock removal. Nvm.

Let's play some scrabble, how do we bring it here ?...does someone know how to bring online
scrabble over here ?
It would be so FUN!!!!!!
Taking a break from caulk removal. Next project is rust removal from a metal exterior door. Uhhhh Originally Posted by Busty

There's several sites that have online scrabble, would have to be on one of those boards.

Metal door rust removal:
Power sander, then will have to prime entire door with rust inhibitor primer. We use Rustoleum. Then final color. Some rust pits you'll have to live with, thus two coats of paint. Consider having the door dismounted and flat up on saw horses for the primer & final coat.

As for Rustoleum, every now and then we'll try something else, but we always come back to a proven regular.

There's several sites that have online scrabble, would have to be on one of those boards.

Metal door rust removal:
Power sander, then will have to prime entire door with rust inhibitor primer. We use Rustoleum. Then final color. Some rust pits you'll have to live with, thus two coats of paint. Consider having the door dismounted and flat up on saw horses for the primer & final coat.

As for Rustoleum, every now and then we'll try something else, but we always come back to a proven regular. Originally Posted by Unique_Carpenter

+1 to what UC is posting.


To add a bit, Rust Reformer in a spray can (also a Rust-Oleum product) will instantly convert the rust to a paintable surface.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...5215/100392541
While it says no sanding needed they mean after application, be sure to sand before applying to get as smooth a surface as possible.

For a really nice job you can fill in those pesky pits and dents with Bondo. They usually sell it on the same aisle with the wood filler, caulk, etc. at the big box stores. Easy to use and will give you an easy to sand and finish surface.


For those that are a bit anal retentive about their work, a good straight edge will show you the areas that need to be filled in and those that need to be sanded flat.




Good Luck,




.